
Zwolle is a wonderful little city in the central area of the Netherlands, to the east of Amsterdam. Its really quite small and doesn't have a lot of the big attractions that draw in tourists such as big museums or exciting cultural events. However, the city itself is really beautiful! It has a lot of beautiful 17th and 18th century architecture, as well as a smattering of 19th and early 20th century stuff too, especially in the area around the city center. As an admitted architecture junkie, this was a really fun place to look around. The central area of the city, and the oldest part, has some amazing remnants of the medieval city. The shape, visible from overhead (or google maps) is an odd sort of star surrounded by a canal.

During the middle ages and renaissance this layout would have allowed the city to have been easily defended from invasion or attack. A few sections of the old wall have survived as well as medieval towers. Had the city come under attack, the walls, towers, and jagged shoreline would have forced attackers of the city to do so while being constantly exposed to the fire of those defending the city. The city itself dates back to the 9th century, but became an actual city in the 13th century and the two churches in the city center have histories dating back to around a century or two after that.
The protestant church on the square dates back to 1406 and is named
St. Michaƫlskerk. It was closed while I was there, but I could see that a majority of the facade is not from that early period. The front now has a line of text over the entrance which reads
To Watch and Pray, in the year 1614. At the top of the tower is a statue of Saint Michael which looks over the open area out in front of the church. Late gothic stonework window frames have survived in the nave of the church, but the windows themselves have been replaced with clear glass, though they likely would have been stained glass at one point. I was able to find a
photo from inside and really wish that it had been open! It looks amazing!

The old catholic church, or
Onze Lieve Vrouwe ten Hemelopneming, was thankfully open! Set back a little off the square, it has a tall bell tower and is nicknamed the 'Pepperbox' for its resemblance to a pepper mill. The nave of the church is beautiful and has amazing decorations throughout. Over the transept and apse are painted some beautiful seraphim holding relics of the passion (I believe). The ciborium over the alter is colorful and at least done in the gothic style, if it doesn't date from that period. The windows in the nave are clear, but the windows behind the altar and in the transepts are stained glass. The decorations in the apse are bright and colorful but have a harmony with the windows and give the space a sort of joy and glow. Visiting the church is free, but it cost a couple of euros to climb up the bell tower. It is really worth the minimal cost and the cardio exercise to climb up the stairs to the top. The view is amazing! I think it is about 15 stories tall and seems like it will never end as you climb up the narrow winding stairs, but it is, thankfully, well lit and doesn't feel claustrophobic. There are lots of other wonderful buildings and low key places to hang out there, but if you only have a day, these are the things that I would suggest trying to hit, and thankfully, they are all very close to each other and hard to miss. I know this places isn't really on the tourist radar, but maybe it should be. It's a wonderful place, peaceful and idyllic, and has some pretty architecture that is worth taking a look at.

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| Just in case you ever wondered wether the Netherlands was flat or not... ^_^ |